Today we speak of one of the most ‘scenic and cool restaurants in Milan: Ceresio 7. It was born in September 2013 on the roof of the historic building of Enel taken over by the brothers Dean and Dan Cauten (those of Dsquared, so to speak). The New York style lounge area expands in two spectacular terraces with pools open to the public during the day and furnished with elegant sofas. Between the two terraces, the spacious internal room, overlooking the modern skyline of the new business center and the Varesine where you can drink classic cocktails or revisited with Italian ingredients and have an aperitif immersed in the light of the sunset that cuts the new skyscrapers and the Monumental Cemetery and restaurant allows guests to enjoy the creations of the chef Elio Sironi both inside and, in good weather, en plein air surrounded by greenery.
The location is really very, very beautiful but – you know – the fashions in Milan pass quickly. Ceresio 7 was born as a trendy and continuous place, after its four years of abundant activity to be more ‘on the crest of the wave. What’s your secret? Without a doubt the haute cuisine of the great Elio Sironi.
We give the floor to the chef.
How was your passion for cooking born?
From an early age; already ‘at ten years I had the precise idea of being a cook, do not ask me why’ and the percome but when my brothers read the comics Zagor and Tex and mom bought the magazine La Cucina Italiana I spent the days on this . I do not know but it was just an attraction, a visceral passion. Then, being the last of the brothers, I was perhaps the most ‘cuddly, I was always attached to the skirts of Corbetta (mother) and … I must tell you, I already’ as a child I wanted to get my hands dirty! Moreover, I saw it as the great journey, a way out and so it was. I traveled the world doing food..the most beautiful thing! I’m really happy with this job; He took me so much and gave me so much. Being a cook has always been and will always be a not indifferent commitment because the working hours are not counted, social life sometimes you have to put aside because it always wins that … I do not know how to call it … mania to go more ‘in the. Despite my fifties and years I feel that I still have many things to learn but I also have many things to tell.
Curriculum: England, Germany, France, Switzerland, United States, Japan, Costa Smeralda, Madrid ..
I also did South Africa, 3 wonderful years. My first experience was in Switzerland by Girardin and marked my path after school. The school gave me a lot but it is clear that then our work is mainly on the field.
Did you do the hotel school?
Yes, in Como and, to follow, I did the Villa d’Este which was a mandatory stop at the time. When this was over I began to travel; at the beginning not too far but already from Girardin, at the time, I was dealing not with simple dishes but with works of art. Imagine a kid who comes to a restaurant like that after seeing trays of chicken breasts and lasagna and is in front of the actual composition of a plate as if it were a painting and, because I did not have the money to buy a camera, I still have the drawings that I did in the evening, in the room, dishes I had seen … the red mullet with the yellow pepper puree, the black eggplant .. now it may seem a triviality .. but 30 years ago they were the first steps towards a new kitchen. Another great, great experience was by Marchesi in Bonvesin della Riva. To hear it speak it was understood that the kitchen goes beyond the plate, there ‘behind a philosophy, a way of thinking about the dish … more’ I felt and more I wanted to know.
I think you can not be a chef without being curious
I agree with you. Curiosity is one of the fundamental elements because if not, just eat.
In my opinion there are a whole series of components in a chef, in addition to the manageriality that distinguishes a chef from a chef: emotionality, sensitivity … I believe that in every dish there is also emotion, feeling, in addition to research. This is what distinguishes the great.
Very true, if the dishes were made only with the help of the technique the results would be really weak. More than from the technique I am obsessed with touch, with touching; touch the meat, touch the salt, have that q.b. in the head to say “that pinch of salt more ‘in the water has made the difference of the roundness’ of pasta”. Although mine are very trustworthy – my second has been with me for 10 years – I taste everything … I have spoons on all sides.
What’s left of all your experience around the world?
The most sensory experience was in Japan. Tokyo fascinated me more than New York and I took my first steps … I came from an Italian reality in which there were four or more people in the kitchen.