A Savelletri, in the heart of Apulia, is the place that most resembles the Macondo of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, an oasis of serenity in the midst of olive trees
“Many years later, facing the firing squad, Colonel Aureliano Buendía was to remember that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice.” Thus begins the masterpiece One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez. “Gabo” used to say that a good old age is an honest pact with solitude. But he did not need to bargain, the feelings of the people have wrapped like a cocoon of tenderness and gratitude to the end, or perhaps loneliness existed in the depths of his mind of man too deep to be fully understood. Loneliness was down, to cause physical discomfort silent, where supporting the ear could hear the throb of the soul.
Why think of Garcia Marquez here, in the heart of Puglia? Why think about the loneliness, the beneficial, healthy, one to which every human being auto-armed and equipped with desk-think at least once a day, when in agony in a traffic jam or quivers in an open space? I’ll explain.
Crossing the threshold of Masseria San Domenico, after the curiosity grows as a fair tide to full moon along the endless path in the olive groves leading to the reception, you feel in Macondo. Yes, in Macondo. A Macondo among trulli, with Aureliano Buendia that puts the “e” instead of “a”, with Negroamaro of Puglia that caresses the throat instead Agua ardiente, but still Macondo, a magical world, isolated in his Beauty, a kind of Avalon south where the round table sit limply knights who is granted every delight.
Macondo is an imaginary village where to lord it is a merciless sun, the sun saber shadows, makes clear, excessive, Manichean in their game of black and white. So at the Colonial. Stroll in this wonderful farm that resembles the South American ranches, slides along the walls and immaculate ado about sublime baroque details; steps facing immense sunny courtyards of paved and you think that somewhere will win a duelist with a Colt in hand and the notes of Ennio Morricone will vibrate in the air that smells of oleander flowers. But no, it is not a duelist, not Clint Eastwood with a cigar between his lips narrow slit, is one of the girls of thalassotherapy, which invites you to dive into the pool of sea water at 28 degrees, oxygenated every day, and thou follow docile docile, under a verriere superb. Your body no longer takes orders from your mind, rebels in anarchy soft and you glide into the warm water. It happens in Macondo Macondo south, first exit right.
The ancient heart of the farm is the beautiful watch tower of the Knights of Malta, dating back to the fifteenth century. It is the nucleus, the magic lantern of stone and lime under a parade of the centuries in this corner of the South that the story has come to light. At night the tower wears lanterns and candles that enhance friezes and loopholes, and the building becomes sentinel of the beautiful pool of brackish water, carved into natural rocks. The fortified farm, immersed in its green cloud of silver a hundred hectares of olive groves, is a world of relaxation, culinary pleasures – is the temple of Mediterranean cuisine – and beauty. Gravitate around some of the most attractive locations of Puglia: the white Ostuni, sort of immaculate wedding cake resting on a promontory to celebrate the meeting between the earth and the Adriatic; Alberobello with its trulli – ah, if only Tolkien was born further south! – Martina Franca with its joys and its baroque palaces exuberant, Polignano a Mare, with secrets of his amazing Grotta Palazzese dug into the cliff, where the nobles of yore were given to parties and revelry.
He visits, and return willingly in Macondo, but without dueling nor irascible colonels South Americans. These will be enclosed in the book of Garcia Marquez that you brought with you, to read under the pergola, among the bougainvillea and prickly pears. Here Macondo, there is only the indolent magic, the rest is your imagination to build it. And be careful because “the inspiration does not give warnings.” He said “Gabo”. Have a good weekend.
HOW TO: Masseria San Domenico, Thalasso-Spa and Golf
Coastal Road 379
Savelletri di Fasano (Brindisi)
Important information: for lovers, golf Masseria has a beautiful 18-hole green overlooking the Adriatic: 6300 m2 of green olive trees and views not to be missed. E’opera European Golf Design.