Five wineries and their wines to taste this summer, traveling long and wide on the island
Between past and future
From the unique territory of Etna and the craftsmanship of generations who work on the slopes of the volcano, a “new” wine is born. Or rather, a new excellent expression of Nerello Mascalese, High Mora Feud of Mid-Cusumano. First vintage 2014. Why between past and future? Well, meanwhile it is a product that is born in a precise landscaping and historic farming context, with still old dry-walled screws. Half feudo is actually a cru obtained from a vineyard of 80 years averaging 2 hectares of cultivated saplings. The future is in the bottle, in its content, resulting from a contemporary philosophy and innovative technology, which allows you to obtain a high quality product. But perhaps more than philosophy, in the case of Cusumano, it would be more correct to talk about poetics. Poetics of wine and poetics of making wine today. The company explains it well in a nice video, spread just for the launch of the wines of the Alta Mora line.
With the malolactic in wood, the Nerello finishes in big barrels and this first edition, the wine is still young, already imposes itself as an important and authoritative bottle. Its intense and complex scents, but fresh and delicious in the mouth, so that it can be perfectly matched with seafood pasta dishes.
Black and white
Fresh black wines are also born from the dark black ground of Etna. Like those produced by another important company in the area, Cottanera. We are talking about two precious bottles: Etna Bianco Doc 2016 and Calderara 2015. Two different interpretations of the Carricante, the extraordinary autochthonous vine spread on the Sicilian volcano, the soul of many of the best Sicilian whites. His first interpretation is the Etna Bianco, which affords the yeast in steel for at least 6 months. More than a base wine, horrible expression, is a bottle that portrays the Carrier with an essential palette, with almost the only basic colors, citrus and mineral notes of this wine. And the body decided in the mouth.
While the Carrier of Contrada Calderara tells another story. It comes from vineyards of 45 years old up to 750 mt above sea level. Fermented and aged 12 months part in wood part in concrete tanks. In short, nature is part of it, but also the cellar wants its. So here we do not find only the citrus freshness, but also the greater flavor. And still the floral and herbaceous notes on the nose. Both wines combine perfectly with raw fish dishes.
Looking for the perfect bottle
Perhaps Stefano Caruso and his brothers are convinced they have found it. In the sense that they have come back to produce the wine that best expresses the philosophy of their wine-making work, the philosophy behind the whole production of the Marsala Caruso & Minini company. A philosophy, born of the competence and passion of Nino Caruso, then of his heirs. And precisely the name Nino brings the prince’s bottle of the cellar, the superb Rosso Sicilia Igt. (15% alcohol), which we had the opportunity to enjoy at the ancient Baglio di Marsala of the family of producers (see the opening photo above). Nino is born from two distinct stages of vintage with a strict selection of grapes (Nerello, Nero d’Avola, Frappato and Perricone). The second harvest occurs after a natural baking of the bunches. The wine then affinates four years in French and American wooden tonneaux, but made in Sicily, and another 12 months in bottle. Another particularly representative wine of Caruso & Minini is certainly the Perricone, also known as Pignatello. Sachia is the name of our bottle with this purest grain. A fresh and powerful wine, fragrant nose and elegant on the palate. 6 months in steel tanks and 3-4 months in bottle. Work on this autochthonous Sicilian grape is another challenge won by the Marsala winery. Finally, we point out three more bottles to try: the Catarratto Isula, the Black Avola Reserve Cutaja and the sumptuous Syrah Riserva Delia Nivolelli.
Speaking of Sicily one can not but mention a Cricket. A Cricket, for example, like the Kados of Duke of Salaparuta from the estate of Risignolo. It is a bottle that well represents this variety, with its floral bouquet. For about 40 days, half of the grapes ferment in barriques, while refining takes place in vitrified cement tanks. The fruit of the work in the vineyard and in the cellar is therefore a wine of remarkable complexity and structure and a combination of great pleasure in the mouth. More demanding and important is certainly Bianca di Valguarnera, Insolia in purity.